Things to do in the valley

Our driver collects you at the gate in the small hours and takes the mountain road to Pura Pasar Agung, the temple where the southern trail begins. From there you walk with a guide from the village of Selat, by head torch, on volcanic gravel and old stone steps. It is steep and it is cold. It is also the only way to see Agung’s shadow fall across half of Bali at first light.

You are back at the villa by late morning, hungry and dusty. Breakfast is waiting, and so is the pool. We recommend it on your second or third morning, once you have slept off the flight.

Every Balinese kitchen starts with base genep, the spice paste of shallot, garlic, galangal, turmeric, chilli, candlenut and shrimp paste that goes into almost everything. Ibu Ketut makes it the way her mother did, in a volcanic-stone mortar, and she will make you do the same. Then sate lilit on lemongrass sticks, a vegetable lawar, sambal matah and rice from the terraces outside.

The class ends at the table in the family bale, where you eat the whole thing slowly. Vegetarian and vegan versions are no trouble. Tell us about allergies when you book.

Breakfast is not included in the nightly price, on purpose: some guests want it every day, others walk to the village. When you want it, it is black rice pudding with coconut milk, fruit from the garden, eggs any way, and Kintamani coffee. Lunch and dinner are short menus of whatever is good that week, nasi campur, soups, grilled fish from the coast.

For a slow morning, add the floating breakfast to your stay and we bring it to you on a tray in your pool. Order at the warung otherwise and pay there, in rupiah or by card.